Wednesday, May 6, 2015

Mongolian Monuments - I (Ulaanbaatar)

Since my last posts were about Хөшөө Цайдам and the word хөшөө 'statue,' it's only fair I show off Mongolia's statues. As the capital and home to almost half the population, Ulaanbaatar has the largest share of Mongol monuments.

The most important statues are in Sühbaatar Square (Сүхбаатарын Талбай - Sühbaataryn Talbai), in the very heart of the city, in front of the Parliament building. And in the very heart of Sühbaatar Square, of course, is the statue of Damdiny Sühbaatar himself.

Монгол ардын хувьсгалантын баатар Д. Сүхбаатар - D. Sühbaatar, hero of the Mongolian Revolution. Standing in the center of Sühbaatar Square, in the center of capital city, this is the country's most famous and iconic statue. Images of it are seen, and recognized, all over.
Sühbaatar (usually transliterated Sukhbaatar) played a pivotal role in the Mongolian Revolution, in which Mongolia gained independence from the Qing dynasty. As a result, he is one of the best-known historical figures in Mongolia, and he is the only person other than Chingis Khaan to appear on Mongolian money. The large Soviet-style square in UB was named after him, and his statue (erected in 1946) has become a national symbol.

View of Sühbaatar Square from the south

Sühbaatar

Sühbaatar


Mongolian script on the east face of the statue
Staring back at Sühbaatar from across the square is a statue of Chingis Khaan. Seated on his throne he guards the house of Mongolian government with his descendants and Ögedei and Khubilai Khaan on either side, announced by two mounted warriors in front.

Across the square from Sühbaatar, Chingis Khaan himself watches over the country from the steps of the Parliament building. Note the two equestrian statues in front.

Close-up of the Great Khan. This is the closest I got. Then the police stopped me.

Diagonally across the street from the square to the southwest (and directly across from the central post office) is a much smaller statue of S. Zorig (С. Зориг). Leader of Mongolia's democratization in the 1990s, he was murdered in 1998, shortly before he was to become prime minister. His killer remains unknown.

This statue, on the corner of Peace Avenue southwest of Sühbaataar Square, commemorates Zorig. It reads, С. Зориг - Монголын ард түмнээс, "S. Zorig: from the Mongolian people."

On center median of the road between the National Circus and the State Department Store (Улсын Их Дэлгүүр) there is a monument to the Beatles. Bronze images of John, George, and Ringo stroll across a vaguely heart-shaped brick wall, while Paul lingers behind, staring at you. Unfortunately, I can't seem to find any pictures I took of them. I only have a picture of the reverse side of the wall, which features an anonymous guitarist. However, it's very easy to find the statue on Google.

Guitarist, on the the avenue connecting the State Department Store and the National Circus. The other side of this wall has statues of the Beatles.
Mongolia loves its national heroes, but it also takes a lot of interest in famous foreigners who were connected with Mongolia. Hence, I heard a lot about people like Marco Polo and Roy Chapman Andrews while I was there. In fact, they put up a statue of Polo in the middle of the city, near Ulaanbaatar Hotel. Formerly, there was also a statue of Vladimir Lenin nearby, but it was removed in 2008.

Obviously, a statue of Marco Polo. Near Ulaanbaatar Hotel.

Close-up
The National Library is graced, fittingly, by Byambyn Rinchen (Бямбын Ринчен), Mongolia's most famous scholar. His statue replaced a statue of Joseph Stalin that was put there during the Soviet era. (Thank God.)

Byambyn Rinchen (Бямбын Ринчен), one of the foremost Mongolian writers and scholars of all time, in front of the National Library. (I was sure I had a close-up picture of him, but I can’t find that either.)

A number of other historical figures and events are commemorated throughout the city.

Bazaryn Shirendev (Modern Cyrillic, Базарын Ширэндэв; in script, Bajar-un Sirindib), next to Urgoo Cinema 2 (Өргөө Кино).

Yumjaagiin Tsedenbal (Юмжаагийн Цэдэнбал) - the longest-lasting leader of modern Mongolia. Next to the National Drama Theatre, and across the street from the Library and the Rinchen statue.

Б. Цэрэндорж (B. Tserendorj) - first prime minister of independent Mongolia.
There are also non-historical and even non-figurative works, which are just as interesting.

Schoolchildren and a giant book, next to the National University of Education (Монгол Улсын Боловсролын Их Сургууль).
Predator statue at The Arizona Center. I don't have a clue what this is about.

Ram in front of the Natural History Museum (Байгалийн түүхийн музей)

Imitation Turkish stone in the sidewalk of Baga Toiruu or "Little Circle" road (Бага Тойруу).


Whirling dervish on the sidewalk. Baga Toiruu, getting close to the State Department Store.

Sidewalk dervish, seen from the south

I think this is near the National History Museum.

Relic of Soviet times, across the street from the train station.
The four friendly animals: bird on top of a rabbit on top of a monkey on top of an elephant, in an island in the middle of the road where it curves. Northwest part of the city.

Random Gargoyle far from the center of the city.
Zaisan (Зайсан) is a memorial area in a far southern corner of the city, far from the city proper. It is centered on a large hill with memorials celebrating Russian and Mongolian friendship. It's a steep climb up the hill, but worth it for the great view of the rest of the city. Near the bottom is a Buddhist idol. Even though the area is designated as a park, someone, somehow, got some high-rise apartments built there, right next to the Buddha. Now it is also known as the hot place to live for rich people.

Statue of the Buddha at Zaisan. To the right, out of the picture, are the luxury apartments.

Stone lion guarding the Buddha

Memorial to the Mongolian tank brigade

The tank says:
Монголын ард-түмний хөрөнгөөр байгуулагдсан хувьсгалт - Монгол танкийн бригад Гитлерийн Германы эсрэг дайнд оролцсон юм
The Revolution that was established by the Mongolian people - The Mongolian tank brigade participated in the war against Hitler’s Germany.

Зайсан толгой

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